So, while Golem (and the Cines Renoir) is much smaller (four or five screens, I can't remember), it's also less exhausting, more selective. I doubt that Romanian cinema could even make the list over at the Ideal, but then again, Golem is owned by one Spain's leading art film distributors of the same name, who operate in four other cities, so there you go. Quality over quantity...you decide. (P.S. Monday is spectator day, 5,-EUR for any session.)

This particular one may beat even Berthillon or Octave of Paris. Los Alpes has been in the family for three generations and while they don't have much in the way of seating, they make up for it in the delicious offerings. Be sure to take a loyalty card as I guarantee you that you'll be back sooner than you know it! My personal favorite is cream with pine nuts.

NaturaSí stocks tofu, seitan, tempeh, quinoa, pita--basically anything "weirdly" vegetarian/vegan/environmentally-friendly and organic that you'll have a tough chance finding elsewhere at a decent price, including vitamins and beauty products and of course, the most important of food items, ICE CREAM. The produce section leaves much to be desired, so perhaps you might opt for a market or (gasp!) El Corte, even. Arguelles branch is small but its aisles well-marked; if you can't find anything, one of the harrassed-looking but ultimately friendly employees will point you in the right direction. There are two other branches in town in Salamanca (C/Montesa 31) and next to the Santiago Bernabeu stadium (C/Doctor Fleming 1). Website orders at naturasite.com.

Let's not forget the books, in multiple languages and covering a wide variety of subjects including theory, history, and guides. 8½ is also the name of their publishing company, from which the copies of scripts and slim and user-friendly artist biographies. Sign up for their fidelity card and you'll be sure to get in on the latest happenings at the shop.