You could spend a whole day here, with a hot chocolate in the morning, a tostada and some spring rolls for lunch, and something else from their delightful menu later in the evening. They also have a take-away bar, if you're not in the mood to stay, or rather, you can't. Another somewhat overpriced place, but you're there for the ambiance, anyway.

Why? On the fourth floor of the Escuelas Pias building, Gaudeamus is especially known for its beautiful rooftop terrace with views over Lavapies, but also for its sober chic decor, not to mention the gastronomic offering (including a great selection of black teas). For the atmosphere, the price is not bad, and if you get there just when the cafe opens (around 3 or 3:30 in the afternoon), you can actually just chill out and plunge into a book. There is a bunch of food (eggplant and zucchini, and a slew of salads and sandwiches) that I'd love to try, but there only available after 8pm, when stuff gets cracking. Don't forget to check their site for the latest cultural happenings.

Gourmet or not though, it's still my favorite place to get a cheese and onion treat. The spinach and bechamel empanada is not too shabby, either. At 1,80-EUR each, you can't go wrong, though you'll surely want to eat a couple more after each delicious bite. If you're really hungry (or are having a party), consider a dozen and get it delivered to your door. Ugh, just looking at their new glossy menu makes my mouth water! (Note: There's also a branch at Pza Cuzco on Calle del Pensamiento and also one in Alcobendas.)

" Of course, when I think of this concept, I think not only of being wrapped in a blanket with a cup of tea reading Rilke but also of being embroiled in a deep conversation with a friend, letting the hours pass by without a care. Surely you can do either (well, sans blanket) at any old cafe, though there's still that cozy--or rather, scrappy, "mismatched"--factor missing from many of the places here. I guess one could make a distinction between a "cafe" and a "coffee shop"; for me the former implies distance and "order" (at least in Paris), and the latter is more indicative of informality, conviviality. The @robase doesn't have a beanbag coziness, but it's much less imposing than the more well-known establishments in town. It helps, probably, that it's in the 13th that's part of the "Rive Gauche" revitalization project, lending the cafe--pardon, coffee shop--an air of toughness along it's otherwise polished edges. It also helps that service is relaxed without being forgetful, the bagels quite good (with Philadelphia cream cheese), and the coffee served in decent sizes, which can be had to go (!).

Try the San Francisco and some nuts at the cozy little bar while you wait for some corner to empty. It's worth it. If there's more than two of you, try the Copa de la Casa, four scoops of different-flavored ice cream. Just don't let it get all soupy.