This place is packed in the late morning with retired men who come to shoot the breeze, at lunchtime with people from the neighborhood, and in the evening with the young and old of Córdoba. The bartenders, all male, are classic examples of the gruff around the edges Andalucían server. There are various versions of this bar around town, including the slightly more upscale "Pata Negra" right next door, but the original on the corner and overlooking Parque Juan Carlos I has the best atmosphere. Grab a table on the street if you can find one empty.

Recommendations: The menú del día is a fabulous value. It's worth the extra euro or two to upgrade to the fancier flamenquín, if pork is your thing. The rabo del toro (oxtail) is excellent, as well as the ensaladilla rusa (kind of like potato salad). The salmorejo is more bread-y and less tomato tasting than some places, but tasty nonetheless. I like the lentejas (lentil stew with chorizo) if you happen to hit it on the right day. These full raciones are HUGE, so think twice about ordering them unless you are with many people.

la bocata para seguir la marcha."

So say the napkins at El Torpedo, a tiny and unassuming sandwich shop that offers some of the best food between 7/8 pm and 2 or 3 am and the best sandwiches in Córdoba, period.

Choose from the MANY options on the menu (personally I like the chicken offerings, sometimes with egg and occasionally with salsa roquefort), grab a beer or can of Coke while you wait a few minutes, and let your mouth start to water. It's possible you'll have to shift around the many people who find their way to the very small shop, and you are lucky if you snag one of the two tables in the corner, but when your sandwich comes...it will all be worth it. The bars of Ciudad Jardín are just down the block and it seems to take about as long to walk to El Centro as it takes to finish a torpedo.

Huge sandwiches on baguette-like bread (hence torpedo) for between 3 and 4.5 euros. Don't expect anything fancy--this is Spain's version of a greasy spoon--but don't expect to go away hungry, either.

Mmmm....torpedo.....

Their almond croissants and pain au chocolat are to die for, as well as their espresso drinks and seeded campagne bread/rolls. OK, so I like most things here.

You'll pay a touch more here than you might somewhere else in town, but it will be worth it. Also, they have excellent daily specials and many of their offerings, like fresh baguettes and multigrain Birdman bread, are available at local grocery stores.

**The word on the street is that Le Petit is leaving its warehouse setting, with no seating except the benches and tables outside, for bigger digs.