And while seeing the Mezquita, walk across the street to Bar Santos, where people come for just one reason: the massive tortilla española.

This place defines "hole in the wall" and is best located via the ever-present line out the door. When you finally get to the bar, order the tortilla española...this is the most flavorful, most gigantic tortilla you may ever see. Pick up a beer or a tinto de verano ("vargas" in Córdoba) and take your plastic fork and plate outside to enjoy your snack on the steps of the Mezquita. Yum.

Don't expect good service, as I have never gotten it here, but expect large and cheap raciones and good people watching in La Corredera.

I recommend the Moorish-inspired berenjenas con miel (fried eggplant with molasses), the flamenquín (a typical food from Córdoba, it is bits of jamón serrano rolled up in pork, battered and fried), and the salmorejo. Medias are generally plenty, but the full raciones go a long way if you're there with a group.

Alhambra on tap

Closed on Mondays.